I'm currently in the process of making an updated version of my corset, and I’m facing a challenge with applying bias binding. especially when working close to the boning channels. The previous version was lined, turned and topstitched. but this time I’m opting for bound edges for a cleaner and more structured finish.
Yesterday, I finished assembling the canvas flatlining where the boning will be placed. The construction follows my previous pattern, with boning running along the front lacing edges. However, I realized that my last corset i purchased from corsetlifestyle.com, which laced at the back, didn’t have boning at the lacing edges, making the binding process significantly easier. In the front, though, boning is essential for structure and support.
While there is a seam/binding allowance along the edges, I'm concerned that stitching so close to the boning will make it tricky to get a neat finish. I’m still testing different techniques, and I’m unsure whether I’ll hand-stitch the back side of the binding or try machine stitching in the ditch. Either way, working near a cable tie or steel boning seems challenging.
At this point, my best option might be to allow a little extra fabric at the edges to provide some flexibility when applying the bias tape. But I’m wondering if there’s a better way to approach this without unpicking and repositioning the boning channels.
Corset Binding Tips and Suggestions
If possible, positioning the boning a tiny bit away from the edge gives more room for binding and reduces bulk.
A thinner bias tape can help prevent excessive layering and make it easier to maneuver around structured areas.
Hand-sewing the back of the binding offers more control, especially when working close to boning. Machine stitching might be quicker but can be harder to manage.
Trimming the seam layers at different lengths before binding can help reduce thickness and ensure a smooth finish.
Pressing and gently shaping the bias tape before applying it makes a big difference, especially around curves and boning edges.
If anyone has additional tips for applying bias binding when working close to boning, I’d love to hear your thoughts! What’s your go-to method for achieving a clean and professional finish?
Gramercy!